dimanche 23 février 2014

Tomorrow in Paris

Dear Friends
 
I have the pleasure to remind you that tomorrow, 24th of February 2014, from 4.00 to 6.00 PM, Abbé Grégoire street (Ecole supérieure de cuisine française, Centre Jean Ferrandi of the Paris Chamber of commerce). 
It is an exception, because usually we have our seminar the 3rd Monday of the month, and not the 4th. 
 
The topic for tomorrow's seminar was decided last month, by the participants of the January seminar, and it will be : 
What is the influence of the size of meat peaces when you make a meat stock? 
What is the influence of bones in stocks ? 
 
See you tomorrow if you can+will. 
 
 
 
Chers Amis
Permettez moi de vous rappeler que c'est demain, 24 février 2014, de 16 à 18 heures, au 28 bis rue de l'Abbé Grégoire (Ecole supérieure de cuisine française du Centre Jean Ferrandi de la Chambre de commerce de Paris) que nous aurons notre séminaire du mois de février (exceptionnellement le 4e lundi du mois, au lieu du 3e).
Le thème qui a été retenu par les participants du séminaire de janvier, pour notre séminaire de demain est :
Quelle est l'influence de la taille des morceaux de viande utilisés pour la confection d'un bouillon de boeuf ?
Quelle est l'influence des os ?

Au plaisir de retrouver ceux qui veulent+peuvent.

jeudi 20 février 2014

Again, questions and answers, and again, a confusion between science and cooking !

Today, I received a long questionary from an English student, and I took some time to answer (primarily for the first questions; then I missed time).

Here it is :



  1. How would you explain the term ‘molecular gastronomy ‘to high school students who have no background knowledge of the term?
First molecular gastronomy is a part of sciences of nature. Which means that we are trying to make scientific discoveries, such as oxygen, inertia, quantum mechanics, or Higgs boson.
Of course, in the case of molecular gastronomy, there is no hope to discover the Higgs boson, because we are focusing on an energy scale which is between van der Waals forces and 400 °C (OK, this should be in terms of joules, but it is because I want to explain, as you said “for student”).
What can we discover ? For example, when we study carrot stocks, we are focusing on the particular mechanisms through which plant tissues can exchange with their environment, when cell walls are disrupted.
More generally, in this direction, I am interested on how compounds are exchanged between colloidal systems and their environment. Are there classes of exchanges ? How to compare them ?
Or, in another research line, I am interested in how chemical compounds present in food are changed during culinary processes, in particular in aqueous medium at 100°C for long times (hours). Indeed, this is a big issue, as food thermally treated has its inside at 100 °C maximum, and cooking times can be long. Imagine that organic compounds are transformed into others: this would be organic chemistry in water, from edible compounds, i.e. more or less “green chemistry”.
Finally, you see: in this field, no cooking ! Only physical chemistry, and the more fundamental the better (for me).
Of course there are many other possibilities. As I showed that cooking has technical, art and social component, studies can be done in these three fields.


  1. What are your thoughts of using molecular gastronomy as a teaching tool for high school students?
Indeed it was always my idea that cooking should not be taught as recipes, as recipes make the cook like a machine. I proposed to reintroduce culinary lessons at school, but only in relationship with science, and with knowledge in particular. For example, in France children at school learn how to make liters and liters of whipped egg white from only one egg white. The world record, to my knowledge, is 40 liters.
There are many benefits in having molecular gastronomy (under this name, or not named) in the educational system, at any level, from school up to university. In particular, people can cook. Then they can be happy to learn science and other matters... because they can see how useful it is. Then they can learn the difference between technique, technology, science, art...
Then...


  1. Do you think learning chemistry through contextual learning is more beneficial than just learning by writing facts and theories?
Yes I do think so, and this tested idea is at the foundation of a modification of the curriculum in France, again.
But about teaching, I am very cautious, because the best educational method can be bad when poorly used, whereas the worst method can become wonderful in wonderful hands. Indeed, teaching is technique, art, and social link (a very long story that I cannot develop here).


  1. What are the benefits of understanding the basics of chemistry?
All your life includes chemistry, or more precisely the result of chemistry : cosmetics, drugs, food, painting, varnishes... If some people fear pesticides, this is because they don't understand what compounds are. And they don't understand that grilling meat is making more more dangerous compounds than pesticides! You cannot vote for laws if you don't understand chemistry, at the XXIrst century. But again, this could make a whole chapter!
  1. Is molecular gastronomy completely safe for your health? How would you explain this to people who don’t have background knowledge in molecular gastronomy and simply overlook it as unhealthy/unsafe?
Here I see that you confuse molecular gastronomy and molecular cooking. Please see the text about that. Science is safe for your health, because it is knowledge, not food !
About molecular cooking (not molecular gastronomy), if people fear it, it's because they don't know the definition of molecular cooking : cooking with new tools.
But now there is a new chapter in the history: note by note cooking. And them people will perhaps fear it. Please look at the text about note by note cooking, in order to see :
-why people will fear it
- why I don't care about people fearing it (they will need it!).


  1. Are molecular gastronomy foods something that young children could consume?
“Molecular gastronomy food “ cannot exist ! Remember that molecular gastronomy is science, not food !
If you discuss molecular cooking dishes, then it depends on what it contains. Please never fall in generalities. For example, do you know that children should not eat “saucisson”, because of nitrites ?
And this is traditional food. Not molecular cooking.
By the way, why don't you ask also “are traditional food something that young children could consume?” ;-)
  1. Can pure compounds be produced and eaten in molecular gastronomy recipes?
Again, no molecular gastronomy recipes. You probably think of note by note cooking. The book in English about this will be published in NYC in October.


  1. What are some prime examples of molecular gastronomy recipes that utilise the changing of states of matter?
The same as for traditional food. When you make a gel, there is a transformation. When fat melts, there is a liquefaction, etc. Just look at a culinary book.
  1. What are some examples of catalysts in molecular gastronomy? How do they work?
Again, the confusion. But if you consider molecular cooking, it is the same as for traditional cooking. But for note by note cooking, there will be possibilities of many advances in this regard.


  1. Could endothermic and exothermic reactions be explained to young children through molecular gastronomy? What are some examples of these reactions within food?
Of course, but there, I would need more time than I have now.


  1. Can we use molecular gastronomy to explain the different tastes of foods e.g. acids/bases? What are some foods that can be explained through their PH levels?
Yes. There are many. Please see my podcasted courses on AgroParisTech, and my various books. Sorrry, most of it is in French.


  1. What are some very simple reactions that can be explained to high school students through food? For example reactions that a student would be able to write out the formula and identify the product and reactant.
I feel that I can explain any reaction to anybody. The question is how deep?
  1. Is Stoichiometry important in molecular gastronomy? What are some examples of stoichiometry in molecular gastronomy?


  1. How could the chemical calculation of concentration be taught through Molecular Gastronomy?
If you look to the “Cours en ligne” of AgroParisTech, in the part “physical chemistry for formulation” or in the FIPDes part, you will see many courses in English, at the university level. The same content could be taucht in high schools.


  1. What are some examples of precipitation reactions within foods/molecular cuisine?
Same as before


  1. What types of reactions are most common in molecular gastronomy? What are some examples of these?
Same as before


  1. Are gels classified as a solid or liquid why? How would you explain this to young students?
About gels, look to my AgroParisTech course en ligne, as said above.


  1. What are some examples where acids and bases are manipulated in molecular gastronomy?
  2. What are some simple kitchen myths that have been proven wrong? What method was used to prove these myths as false?
Please see my article “Comparative molecular gastromy” in the Japanese Journal of Cookery science.


  1. How does different PH levels effect food?
Same as before


  1. Can hydrated compounds be explained through the dehydration of food?
Sorry but I don't understand the question


  1. Can the molecular formula be determined for food? e.g. what is the molecular formula of a strawberry? How is it found?
I don't understand the question. Do you mean DSF ? If so, did you the courses about that, and the articles ?


  1. What is chemically happening in the process of spherfication?
See articles on that.


  1. When maltodextin is added to fat, what is chemically happening?
Everywhere on the net.


  1. What properties of soy lectin, xanthan Gum and sodium citrate that make them emulsifiers?
Again, see my courses.


  1. How does Agar Agar gell work/ why does it have the properties it has?
Everywhere on the net


  1. How does sodium Alginate gell work/ why does it have the properties it has?
Everywhere on the net


  1. What are the most interesting chemicals have you worked with/ studied through molecular gastronomy? What is it that you found interesting?
Water ! If protons are labile (as seen with NMR, it means that the “are not” in the molecule, so that the H2O molecule does not exist, as a fixed unit. This is one very interesting and simple case, let's say prototype, for many other ideas in physical chemistry.

mercredi 12 février 2014

This is from NYC

Dear Friends
I am happy to forward you this :

Experimental Cuisine Collective
Experimental Cuisine Collective
  February 2014 meeting
Upcoming ECC Events
Visit our website to see dates and speakers as we schedule them for 2014 and add them to your calendar. 
 




Quick Links...
Hello all,
 
  
The Experimental Cuisine Collective's February meeting will take place on Tuesday, February 18, from 4 to 6 p.m. in the Chemistry Department at NYU, room 1003 (31 Washington Place, between Washington Square Park and Greene Street). You will need a photo ID to enter the building.    
 
In her talk, Food Design: Affecting the Route from Hand to Mouth, Emilie Baltz---photographer, designer, author, and artist extraordinaire---will talk about the role of design in food "beyond the plate": from product, sensory and experiential examples in her own body of work.  

Please RSVP at ecc022014.eventbrite.com. A link is also posted on our website.
If you RSVP and can no longer make it, please let me know right away so that your seat can be released---thank you!   

All my best,


Anne 

----
Anne E. McBride
Director, Experimental Cuisine Collective 

ABOUT THE EXPERIMENTAL CUISINE COLLECTIVE
The Experimental Cuisine Collective is a working group that assembles scholars, scientists, chefs, writers, journalists, performance artists, and food enthusiasts. We launched in April 2007, as a result of the collaboration of Kent Kirshenbaum of the chemistry department and Amy Bentley of the nutrition, food studies, and public health department at New York University with Chef Will Goldfarb of WillPowder. Our overall aim is to develop a broad-based and rigorous academic approach that employs techniques and approaches from both the humanities and sciences to examine the properties, boundaries, and conventions of food.

Visit the ECC online at www.experimentalcuisine.com. 
This email was sent to herve.this@paris.inra.fr by aemcbride@gmail.com |  
Experimental Cuisine Collective | New York University | 411 Lafayette Street | 5th Floor | New York | NY | 10003

lundi 10 février 2014

From our friends running molecular gastronomy in Cuba






6to CONGRESO LATINOAMERICANO Y DEL CARIBE SOBRE CALIDAD E INOCUIDAD DE LOS ALIMENTOS
5to CONGRESO NACIONAL DE ALIMENTACION Y NUTRICION


CUBALUMIÈREGOURMET 2014
Lema del Evento:
“La cultura alimentaria en la Ciencia de los Alimentos, la Gastronomía y los medios audiovisuales”




15 al 19 de Septiembre del 2014
Palacio de Convenciones de La Habana, Cuba

mercredi 1 janvier 2014

A message and answers

Today, received this : 
Dear Mr.This



My name is XXXX and I attend a high school named Enskilda gymnasiet in Stockholm, Sweden. I’m studying a natural science program and right now I’m doing a project regarding chemistry. I’m investigating if molecular gastronomy is going to be included in meals of a family’s’ daily life.



The past evolution of food shows that we are always trying to develop food so that it will be as easy, comfortable and quick as possible for a common family to put food on the table.



I’ve read an extremely interesting article where you participated in a Swedish magazine called ”Forskning & Framsteg”. Furthermore, I was wondering if you could take a tad of your time and help me with my project by answering a few questions.



1.    1.  Do you think molecular gastronomy will be included in a future family’s everyday meals? If so, in what way?

2.     2. How do you think catering will look like in the future? What will be its contents? Is there a possibility that we might have a powder that we will mix with water, which will give us meatball dough?

3.     3. Do you think there will be some kind of replacement for todays’ protein? If so, how and what?

4.     4. Do you think the molecular gastronomy has to develop further to prepare the society in case of a cataclysm or a long term cut of electric power? If so, in what way?

5.     5. In 20 years, how would you imagine a lunch for a stressed, hard working person would look like? Is there a possibility that this person will only have to take a pill to get all the nutrition we need to survive?



Thank you in advance.
Here the answer : 

Thanks for your message. Please do look at https://sites.google.com/site/travauxdehervethis/, as the English section contains a lot of questions+answers.
Specifically :
1.   Do you think molecular gastronomy will be included in a future family’s everyday meals? If so, in what way?

Molecular gastronomy is science, that you confuse probably with molecular cooking. Indeed, some years ago, I would had say yes, but I am now proposing something much more important, called "note by note cooking". And yes, for sure, note by note cooking is the future of our food, for many reasons that I am explaining in a book in French (English version in October).

2.     How do you think catering will look like in the future? What will be its contents? Is there a possibility that we might have a powder that we will mix with water, which will give us meatball dough?

Catering in the future ? Note by Note. By the way, the idea of pills, or powder, or capsules is a fantasm. If you calculate the needed energy for just survival, it takes more than 300 g using the most energetic compounds  (which is fat) ! Except if we find a more energetic (and edible) compound...


3.      Do you think there will be some kind of replacement for todays’ protein? If so, how and what?

Remember that we need nitrogen ! And that as living organisms are concerned, we have to take the biology of evolution into account.


4.     4. Do you think the molecular gastronomy has to develop further to prepare the society in case of a cataclysm or a long term cut of electric power? If so, in what way?

Molecular gastronomy has to develop in order to make new discoveries, but science has nothing to do with society issues. Only technology does. And the Note by Note project has to spread. Many questions have to be studied. Ten billions people in 2050, plus predicted crisis for water and energy!!!


5.     In 20 years, how would you imagine a lunch for a stressed, hard working person would look like? Is there a possibility that this person will only have to take a pill to get all the nutrition we need to survive?

Answered above.

Happy New Year

Happy New Year

Dear Friends

The world is not restricted to my  small surrounding, but 2013 was not so bad:
- we went on with our monthly seminar of molecular gastronomy (after 13 years), and we got many thankflul messages from the culinary world
- note by note cooking developed explosively, and it goes on in this way
- we actively fought against "fear merchants", in particular in the frame of the French Academy of agriculture
- using blogs, we explained broadly that science is different from technology and technique
- we tested many new educational methods, et we proposed broadly many educational new ideas
- we helped the regional Science and Food Culture Circles to develop and work
- we looked for more "Light" through articles, internets sites, posts...
- we went on our scientific studies, with many colleagues and students
- we had the 20th group for the Institutes for Advanced Studies in Gastronomy
- we contributed to develop molecular gastronomy in many countries of the world
Many of these works were achieved with your help : thanks !

Let's walk toward more Light in 2014.
Happy New Year to you

mercredi 11 décembre 2013

The Second International Contest for Note by Note Cooking


Second International Contest
of
Note by Note Cooking


Methional







Methional is an organic compound having the general formula CH3SCH2CH2CHO. When pure in ordinary conditions, it is a colourless liquid, with a strong odor of cooked potatoes, of potage cultivateur, with bacon notes... In the kitchen, it can indeed appear during potato cooking, for exemple, but also during tea production. It is made from the amino acid called methionine.


Organization Team :
Odile Renaudin (www.sciencesetgastronomie.com) , Yolanda Rigault (yolanda.rigault@wanadoo.fr), Hervé This (herve.this@paris.inra.fr)





Introduction : Note by Note Cooking

Note by Note Cooking is a new culinary technique using pure compounds in order to make dishes.
However, one can understand that, in order to make food practically, in a reasonable time, some shorter ways can be used : whereas « pure Note by Note Cooking »is using only pure compounds (no meat, fish, egg, vegetables, fruits...), it is admitted to use fractions from animal and plant tissues, obtained by fractionation or cracking of such tissues (this is « Practical Note by Note Cooking »).
Or course, one can also only add pure compounds to traditionally prepared dishes, but of course this is less new.
As Note by Note Cooking proved sometimes difficult too make, we propose, for this second contest, to familiarize cooks with this new technique proposing only the use of one compound : methional.


What it is proposed to do:

For this Second International Contest of Note by Note Cooking, it is proposed to make between one and three dishes which have all to contain methional. This compound will be sent to participants, under the form of dilute solution in neutral oil.
The submitted dishes will be judged according to how clore from pure Note by Note Cooking they are. But of course the originality of methional implementation will also be considered.
A good appreciation will be given to dishes containing no plant tissues (vegetables, fruits) or animals (meat, fish, eggs), but only new fractions from such tissues (for example, egg white powder, milk proteins fractions...). Participants will be free to get these fractions by themselves or to make them.

Each dish (maximum 3) has to be:
  1. described by a recipe (maximu 2 pages, Roman 12), indicating :
- all ingredients used with quantities
    1. - the production process
  1. shown on pdf pictures (5 maximum, production steps can be shown).



Evaluation criteria :
Reproducibility.
Methional implementation.
Originality of methional implementation.
The use of other pures compounds rather than fractions.
Of course, the proposed dishes should not be toxic !
Flavour complexity will be appreciated : a dish with consistency, odor, taste, colour... will be preferred to simple productions.


Who can participate?
This contest is open to all (categories will be made between chefs, amateurs, food engineers...)


How to participate?
Simply apply by email at herve.this@agroparistech.fr, giving a postal adress (for the reception of methional sample) and a phone number.
Pour l'inscription, il suffit d'envoyer un email de candidature, avec une adresse postale et un téléphone.
Then describe your production in a file .doc, along with a .ppt document of 10 slides maximum. Please give pictures with hi res 300 dpi.


Dates :
Applications are open until the 15th of March 2014
Sending your results : until 30 April 2014.


Prize ceremony:
Friday 23 May 2014, in the afternoon, AgroParisTech (16 rue Claude Bernard, 75005 Paris).

Prizes will be given by partners : Mane SA, Revue Pour la Science, Editions Belin, Louis François Inc
The best productions will be displayed on many internet sites (Scienceetgastronomie.com, Forum Note à Note d'AgroParisTech...). They will be shown is exhibitions.





Partenaires :

Editions Belin
Revue Pour la Science
Société Louis François
Annex :
From Molecular Gastronomy to its applications :

« Molecular Cuisine » (it is over)

and « Note by Note Cuisine» (don't miss this next world

culinary trend!)


Hervé This



1. The scientific work

In 1988 Nicholas Kurti and I created the scientific discipline that we called « Molecular

gastronomy» (remember that the word « gastronomy » means « knowledge », and not cuisine, even
haute cuisine ; in the same way, Molecular Gastronomy does not stand for cooking!).

The aim of Molecular Gastronomy was, is and will be forever : looking for the mechanisms of

phenomena occcuring during dish preparation and consumption.


2. An application in the kitchen

In the beginning of the 80's, we introduced also «Molecular Cuisine », whose definition is :

« Producing food (this is cuisine) using « new » tools, ingredients, methods ».

In this definition, the word « new » stands for what was not in kitchens of the western countries in
1980.

For example : siphon (to make foams), sodium alginate (to get pearls with a liquid core, spaghettis
of vegetables, etc.) and other gelling agents (agar-agar, carraghenans, etc.), liquid nitrogen (to
make sherbets and many other innovative preparations), rotary evaporator, and more generally, the
whole set of lab's equipment when they can be useful ; another of new « method », finally, the
prepration of the Chocolate Chantilly, of beaumés, gibbs, nollet, vauquelins, etc. ( Cours de
gastronomie moléculaire n°1 : Science, technologie, technique (culinaires) : quelles relations ?, Ed
Quae/Belin)

Of course all these items are not completely new (many gelling agents are used in Asia for millenia,
and many tools are used daily in chemistry labs), but the goal was to modernize the technical
component of cuisine.

Yes, the expression « Molecular Cuisine » is poorly chosen, but it had to be introduced at some
time... and it is not within the Encyclopedia Britannica Dictionnaly. And Molecular Cuisine will
disappear... because of... see below !


3. The next culinary trend : Note by Note Cuisine !

The next proposal is much more exciting, and its name is NOTE BY NOTE CUISINE.

It was first proposed in 1994 (in the magazine Scientific American) at a time when I was playing at
using compounds in food, such as paraethylphenol in wines and whiskeys, 1-octen-3-ol in dishes,
limonene, tartaric acid, ascorbic acid, etc.

The initial proposal was to improve food... but the next idea was obvious, it is to make dishes

entirely from compounds.

Let's say it differently. Note by Note Cuisine is not using meat, fish, vegetable or fruits, but rater
compounds, either pure compounds or mixtures, such as electronic music is not using trumpets or
violins, but rather pure waves which are mixed in sounds and in music.

Here, for Note by Note Cuisine, the cook has to : :

– design the shapes of the various parts of the dish

– design the colors

– design the tastes

– design the odors

– design the temperatures

– designe the trigeminal stimulation

– design the consistencies

– design the nutritional aspects

– etc.

The feasability of this new cuisine was already shown by many meals :

– first Note by Note meal (called Note by Note N°1) shown to the international press in Hong

Kong by Pierre Gagnaire in April 2009

– two dishes shown at the French-Japanese Scientific Meeting (JSTS) in Strasbourg, in May

2010

– whole Note by Note Meal served by the chefs of the Cordon bleu School in Paris in

October 2010

– Note à Note meal served the 26th of January 2011, as a launching event of the International

Year of Chemistry, at UNESCO, Paris, by the team of Potel&Chabot

– Note by Note cocktail serve in April 2011 to 500 French chefs freshly starred at Michelin,

in Espace Cardin, Paris

– Note by Note Meal served in October 2011 by the team of the chefs of the Cordon bleu

Schools Paris

– Note by Note dishes made by chefs of the Toques Blanches International Association, in

Paris, 3 Decembre 2011

Many questions arise from this new cuisine:

– land development

– economy

– sensorial

– technique

– art

– politics

– nutrition

– toxicology

– etc.

But:

1. humankind is facing an energy crisis : it is not sure that traditional cuisine is sustainable (it

is not!)

2. the New will always beat the Old

3. cracking products from agriculture and farming is already done for milk and wheat ; why

not carrots, apples, etc. ?

4. The objections made to Note by Note cuisine were done half a century ago against

electronic music, and guess what you hear at the radio today ?

In other words, are not we at the equivalent of 1947, when musicians such as Varèse and some

others were investigating electronic music ?